All 13 in-depth pieces we’ve published on Jerusalem — newest first.

Tours & tickets
Non-Muslims can't go inside the Dome of the Rock, but you can stand beside it. Here is the gate to use, the two narrow windows, the dress code and the rooftops that show you the gold.

Tours & tickets
A half day on foot inside the walls: what to book before you fly, what costs nothing, and the hours and dress rules that decide whether you get in.

Tours & tickets
Non-Muslims can enter the gold-domed esplanade in only two short windows a day, and how long you queue at the Western Wall decides whether you make the first one.

Twenty-five quiet hours in Jerusalem, walked properly: when to stand at the Kotel, which synagogue can take a whole group, and what actually opens on Saturday.

A calm, hour-by-hour guide to walking the Old City's Jewish, Muslim, Christian and Armenian quarters — with honest door policies, prayer-time realities and what actually suits couples versus groups in 2026.

Ten terraces, bars and café roofs — from a ₪5 Old City parapet to a Waldorf cocktail deck — and exactly how to time, book and read each one.

How the same covered lanes of Jerusalem's great shuk shift from Iraqi kubbeh at noon to craft beer and Sephardic hookah by midnight — and exactly where to eat, drink, and book.

Tours & tickets
The citadel just inside Jaffa Gate is the one museum that arranges Jerusalem in your head before you walk into it. Here is how to time it, what to skip, and what the climb is really like.

Tours & tickets
Most of the Old City's quietest quarter is free to walk; what needs timing is a 30-minute cathedral window and a ramparts walk that shuts before vespers begins.

Tours & tickets
Sunrise and the Friday hour before Shabbat are when to be on the plaza, and the tunnels underneath need booking ahead. Prices, rules and timings for an Old City morning.

Jerusalem's only light rail line runs the length of the city's oldest arguments in under an hour, and riding it end to end is the calmest, cheapest way to actually see the whole place.

A calm, early-rising walk through the holiest few hundred metres on earth — where six denominations, three faiths and three thousand years share the same worn limestone, and how to see it with respect and good timing.

A walled garden behind an ophthalmologist's clinic once gathered the painters, poets and officials who shaped Mandate-era Jerusalem — and the houses, bars, cafés and archives nearby still trace that circle today.